sábado, 5 de abril de 2008

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¿El presidente Sánchez de Lozada estuvo aquí en Madrid?, se pregunta Alvaro Choque, y se bebe a grandes sorbos su cerveza fría en el bar "La Perla Boliviana", en la calle Julio Merino No 11 de Madrid, mientras la música de los Kjarkas retumba con la fuerza de los charangos y zampoñas en las esquinas de ese bar en cuyas paredes aparecen retratadas las riberas del lago Titicaca y las palmeras despeinadas del oriente boliviano.
Afuera de este local que en las noches es el centro donde se reúne la comunidad boliviana, la lluvia cae sobre España y la hace más lúgubre a los ojos de los inmigrantes ilegales llegados desde el otro lado del mar, desde un país sin mar.
"Si hubiera sabido que Goni estaba aquí, iba hasta... ¿en que hotel estaba?, ¿el Ritz?, ¡joder!, ese hotelazo!!!. Pues iba y lo traía de las orejas a rastras para que vea en la pocilga en que vivo por su culpa. Yo dejé Bolivia porque allá no se podía vivir y porque todos los gobiernos son corruptos", se lamenta lleno de rabia este paceño de 38 años que hace media década dejó en su tierra a sus dos hijos (entonces de tres y cinco años), a su esposa, y a sus padres.
"Uno en esta mierda de lejanía no sabe si sus hijos están enfermos o si se murieron tus padres. Si llamas por teléfono, tu familia te miente para que no te preocupes, y esa incertidumbre de saber que te pueden mentir por piedad, es peor que la realidad", dice este albañil que cuando tiene trabajo gana al día 30 euros (unos $us 27), mientras que sólo en comida gasta diez euros por jornada, en transporte cinco, y junto a otros seis bolivianos, ilegales como él, paga a duras penas 2.000 euros por un cuarto en la zona de la estación de Atocha, lo que le significa no mandar dinero a Bolivia. “Y yo que vine a ganar plata dejando a mi familia. Ahora estoy sin plata, creo que sin familia y a 8.000 kilómetros de Bolivia”, remata con desesperada ironía.
En España, Choque no sólo afronta a diario la melancolía de extrañar la tierra de sus afectos, sino que aguanta la humillación que sufren no sólo los inmigrantes bolivianos, sino también ecuatorianos, dominicanos, marroquíes y otros que llegan a la península en buscar una vida mejor.
"Tus manos son negras, no quiero que toques la fruta que voy a comprar. Todo tu apestas", le decían los clientes españoles a otro boliviano inmigrante, Roberto Candia, cuando empezó a trabajar en una frutería de Madrid. "Por suerte, mi jefe intercedía por mí, y les preguntaba por qué me trataban así, y ellos les contestaban que todos los sudacos (término despectivo usado en España para referirse a los sudamericanos), son asquerosos y ladrones", recuerda Roberto, un cruceño de 35 años que hace seis dejó a sus dos hijos y a su mujer en Santa Cruz.
A esa andanada de insultos que salen del florido lenguaje de algunos españoles, se suman otros como: tercermundista, indio de mierda, basura, a los cuales los indocumentados deben acostumbrase para conservar el trabajo.
Cuando estos autoexiliados que huyen de la pobreza empiezan a contar sus desgracias, tienen en los ojos un brillo de tristeza que a ratos se transforma en un chispazo de victoria contra el silencio que los ahoga. Cuando cuentan, sale desde su corazón todo ese barro negro que deben guardar seis días a la semana, desde las cuatro de la mañana hasta las 22:00, tiempo que duran sus jornadas de trabajo. “Cuando recién llegué a España, trabajé cavando zanjas y operando, sin saber, maquinaria pesada. Me cansé y reclamé porque no tenía equipos de seguridad, ni seguridad médica (hay que rezar para no enfermarse porque sinó estás frito) y porque al español no le daba la gana de pagarme. Entonces el patrón me dijo que no me iba a pagar porque yo era un ilegal. "¿Vas a ir a quejarte a la policía?, si te vas, aparecerán cien como tu a pelearse como perros tu puesto", me dijo y me echó sin darme un quinto, luego que trabajé con él tres semanas. Si encuentro a un español en Bolivia, por más que no lo conozca, le voy a sacar la mierda”, dice. El pique macho, corre entre las mesas de manteles rojo, amarillo y verde de este local boliviano donde se reúnen los compatriotas a sanar sus heridas, comiendo picante, bebiendo y oyendo música nacional.
Jaime Corso, otro boliviano, dice que ser migrante y no tener documentos en España es peor que ser un perro. "La gente se hace ilusiones sobre lo que es España. Cuando uno llega aquí, lo hace por 90 días como turista, pasa ese tiempo y entonces la policía te busca para expulsarte. Si uno se come el orgullo y se queda a pesar de los malos tratos del patrón, entonces los abusos aumentan. Si te vas, estás destinado a vagar buscando trabajo, que cada vez es más escaso por el exceso de mano de obra migrante. Entre tanto deberás comer, vestir, dormir y mandar dinero a Bolivia ¿qué hacer?, pues unos apuestan a la delincuencia y otros piden ayuda, limosnas ¿entendés?, ¡limosnas como cualquier mendigo de mierda!, ¿entendés?, y da rabia por que no venimos a robar, ni a mendigar, venimos a trabajar y acá nos tratan como a basura”, dice. Afuera ha dejado de llover y la noche empieza a tornarse más fría, más hostil.
Lo peor es que los bolivianos que han llegado ilegales a España, lo hacen después de endeudarse en su país. “Te cuento, pero si no ponés mi nombre. Bueno, a mi me prestaron $us 10.000 antes de venir. Más de la mitad dejé a mi familia para que se mantenga, mientras yo encontraba trabajo aquí, y el resto lo gasté en el pasaje y para establecerme al llegar a Madrid. En Bolivia ya se acabó la plata y yo aquí no consigo trabajo. La policía me quiere expulsar y yo le ando huyendo porque no quiero volver deportado a mi país. Si no me meten preso aquí por ilegal, me van a meter allá por insolvente”, dice este hombre que ha llegado a este lugar, que es como un pedacito de Bolivia en Europa.
Madrid de noche se convierte en dos ciudades, la que con sus luces potentes como soles refleja la grandeza de sus monumentos históricos, y la otra, la subterránea que es de los latinoamericanos que maldicen despacito en aimara, quechua y taíno, a sus patrones, que casi siempre los explotan por ser ilegales, ignorantes y mano de obra poco calificada, que si quiere comer, debe aguantar. De noche, estos trabajadores sin acceso a la seguridad social, ni a la educación para sus hijos, se convierten en señores de la cerveza y dan riendas suelta a su recuerdos, y las charlas a gritos sólo hablan de la lejana Latinoamerica. “Nos dicen indios, pero ellos son gitanos”, dice una voz que sale del tumulto.
Saben que no deben hacer ruido porque si los vecinos escuchan la música y la bulla que arman esas parrandas, llamarán a la policía. Por eso, a las tres de la mañana ya empiezan a irse del local. No quieren que la madrugada los agarre en la calle porque antes que amanezca, la policía hace batidas en las paradas de buses donde se concentran los migrantes para ir a sus trabajos. Los oficiales meten a sus patrullas a cualquiera que tenga pinta de inmigrante (moreno, con ojos clavados al piso) y los encierran en calabosos. “Ahí te preguntan por tus papeles, si no tenés, te obligan a que denunciés a tu patrón para meterlo preso por dar trabajo a un ilegal. Me encerraron y amenazaron con deportarme. Por suerte mi jefe mandó un abogado y salí, luego me ofreció un contrato de trabajo y recién empecé los trámites para mi estadía legal en este país”, señala Gabriel Paz, cruceño de 29 años que trabaja como albañil, oficio al que se dedica la mayoría de los bolivianos, mientras que sus mujeres, que hallan trabajo más rápido, cuidan casas, niños o ancianos.
Pero los bolivianos no sólo tienen problemas con los españoles, sino entre ellos también. En Madrid, el regionalismo es más marcado y eso se ve los fines de semana en los campeonatos de futbol que se disputan en el parque 12 de Octubre. Allí chocan equipos collas contra cambas (72 planteles), y tras el fútbol, llegan los tragos y las trifulcas frenadas por la policía, que carga con todos a las comisarías o a la cárcel, donde hay 20 bolivianos acusados de ser “mulas del narcotráfico”, encerrados sin que nadie vele por ellos. A lo mejor sus familias en Bolivia ignoran cuál ha sido el destino de estos ciudadanos que dejaron el país en busca de mejores días y terminaron en una celda con sus sueños destruidos en un país tan lejano, como esos de los que hablan los cuentos.

Lejos del bar, en uno de los tres locutorios públicos (café internet) de Madrid, los trabajadores latinoamericanos empiezan a juntarse. Ellos son los unicos que usan el internet para hablar con sus familias en sus paises (los españoles tienen ese servicio en su casa). En el mismo espacio, estan las cabinas de telefonos par las llamadas de larga distancia. No hace falta escuchar con atencion para detectar los acentos: el portuespañol de los paraguayos, las entonaciones obvias de los colombianos, peruanos, bolivianos y los ecuatorianos que estçan en todas partes, sin contar a los marroqies enormes y gritones o los africanos obvios. En las conversaciones se escuchan llantos, palabras que consuelan a un niño en el otro lado del telefono, expresiones de dolor porque un pariente querido acaba de morirse a miles de kilometros de distancia y los buenos consejos y palabras tranquilizadoras de que en españa nos va bien , nos tratan bien, no se preocupen, pronto estaremos en casa, y al colgar el suspiro de desahogo, el dorso de la mano que se lleva lejos la lagrima de la mentira.

Ojo: (Nota recuperada sin corrección ortográfica, sorry!!)

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